We say the film industry easily typecasts actors. Designers have a larger arena to work with now, which was not the case before. Promotions, red carpet events, social media videos, all require styling - when the actress is promoting the movie or even otherwise. But today, a designer’s work is not restricted to the silver screen only. I think, today the characters have become very real and simplistic but the challenge is still the same, to stick to the character. But it was always sticking to the character and yet trying to do something new. Many films, even today, carry that same impact - whether it’s with Sara, Kiara or Janhvi. That really helped me show my passion and styling skills. When I started, I did movies with Ram Gopal Varma, Karan Johar and Aditya Chopra where the actress was dreamy and aspirational.
What are the changes you observe in terms of fashion and how the cinema space for designers has evolved? Like for Nooraniyat my latest collection, I felt like doing black for the summer and that’s how I proceeded. When it comes to the collection, I look at what is inspiring me or how I’m feeling at that moment. This is why the subject is very important. But I knew that if the character was a soft demure one or if she was wild, then she had to dress as per her character. I was one of the first designers to ask for a script to present the looks of the actress. I enjoyed the process so much that I decided to do it again this time with my latest collection Nooraniyat and I intend to do so with my future collections as well.ĭo take us through the design process does the subject take priority or the fashion and the theme?įor me, I have to know the subject to design accordingly. How fabulous is that! I designed the clothes and conceptualised and directed the fashion film myself (a musical love story set in the backdrop of the partition). The reactions are immediate through comments and likes. I, for one, love the new digital trend in the industry. I have always believed that change is the only constant. How do you perceive this digital makeover of the fashion industry amid the pandemic?
It has deftly embroidered pieces and two-toned colour-blocked silhouettes that journey from classic aesthetics to a more dynamic new-age look of the contemporary times. The collection is in sorbet and blush shades of bright pink, lilac, grey-blue, beige-gold, powder blue, metallic gold-silver, among many others. It has a range that is expansive with kalidars, lehengas, gowns, jackets, shararas, kurtas, palazzos, dupattas and signature blouses that fit diverse palettes and occasions. Nooraniyat is a collection I have thoroughly enjoyed creating. My inspiration was to bring together a new composition that is balanced in its heterogeneous elements, where everything exists. Tell us about Nooraniyat and what inspired it? Here, the designer talks to us about his collection, digital makeover of fashion, cinema, competition, his favourite muse from Bollywood, and much more… His recent wedding collection Nooraniyat, showcased at Vogue wedding show and India Couture Week 2021 earlier this year, sits firmly with the pandemic-induced preferences but is also relatable to the Manish Malhotra aesthetic and his loyalists. Evolving with the time, Manish developed a collection that’s influenced by the present, the new world. Not just Bollywood but his designs have been embraced by global celebrities such as Demi Moore, Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell and Michael Jackson. Off-screen, he remains a favourite with actresses like Kareena and Karisma Kapoor, Malaika Arora, Raveena Tandon, Alia Bhatt, Janhvi Kapoor and her mother and actress (late) Sridevi and Aishwarya Rai Bachchan among others. Whether it is a wedding lehenga with an unusual colour (the iconic green lehenga in DDLJ) or introducing sensual, sequinned and mulmul saris (the Desi Girl sari in Dostana, the Chammak Challo red sari in Ra.One and the Tip Tip Barsa Paani in Sooryavanshi) or bringing a redefined aesthetic to fashion with films like Kuchh Kuchh Hota Hai, Dil Toh Pagal Hai and Kabhi Khushi Kabhie Gham, among many others. Starting from Rangeela in 1995 where he designed bold outfits for Urmila Matondkar, who later became his first showstopper, the celebrity designer has upgraded cinema’s fashion landscape with reinvented bridal wear. He has the credit of bringing in the showstopper culture and front rows and it is hard to name one star in Bollywood who hasn’t worn Manish Malhotra clothes on or off the ramp. His genre-defining work in the fashion world with over 1,000 Bollywood movies to his credit and 15 years of his eponymous label, paved the way for many designers in the country to follow the path. It was the 1990s when Indian fashion and cinema saw a new dawn of change - celebrity designer Manish Malhotra and larger-than-life glamour in Bollywood movies.
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